Comrat, Gaugauzia, Part 1

“You’ve given him reason to keep living!” I wriggled my eyebrows in mock-pleasure as the Gagauzian man across from me grinned widely and teased. He was referring to his father, a slurring 73-year-old with a fondness for wine and a delicate red stain on the collar of his […]

Churches and Fainting Americans

“By the time we get to the monastery, we’re going to smell so bad they won’t want to let us in.” I glanced back over my cushioned seat at my Language Training Instructor as I joked  – what do the Peace Corps staff remind us at training? All […]

Sidekick

I think I’ve got myself a sidekick. This afternoon as I slipped into my running pants, I heard a tap-tapping on my bedroom doorframe. The introduction now elicits instant recognition: it was, of course, my upstairs neighbor and curious confidant, Livia. (Ever-observant, the girl had complimented a tattoo […]